Water Grill Comes to Caesar’s

By: Robert Gurley
 
There was a lot of speculation as to what would replace Spago when it moved from Caesar’s to the Bellagio. When it was learned that Water Grill was coming to that spot, cheers went up. Southern California foodies have been enjoying the upscale nautical entrees both in downtown Los Angeles and Orange County for some time.

​The new location on the strip is much different than the cousins down south. The décor lighting is darker with a look that resembles being inside a luxury yacht. There is an upstairs area with a private dining room and the large fish tanks are tucked in the back close to the expansive kitchen.

​I had anticipated the visit for a while and my wife and I were on our way to see Keith Urban when we stopped by. Our appetizer pick was a roasted beet salad with wild argula that helped balance the sweetness of the beets.
 
Tandoori-spiced yogurt was drizzled on top. It was a pleasant way to begin the proceedings. Other appetizers include Oysters Rockefeller, wild Spanish Octopus and Fresh Ricotta with Sea Salt.
   
My wife adores Cioppino and she asked the waiter about this version. He said it was very good but was also “interactive.”
 
She ordered it and it was an impressive collection of Dungeness crab, jumbo shrimp and fresh fish in shellfish broth. It came with a bib and with good reason.
 
The crab and shrimp needed to be peeled. The general manager came over later and told us that next time we can get the shrimp peeled ahead of time. Good idea.
    
I opted for the Wild Eastern Sea Scallops and there was nothing wrong with these. They were plump and sautéed just right. They were accompanied by cauliflower puree and curried roasted cauliflower that had a nice char. Pickled golden raisins and soy brown butter helped to balance out the flavors.
  
They also feature a slate of beef from an eight-ounce Double R Ranch Filet Mignon to a New York Strip Steak Wagyu. Fans of whole fish might want to consider the Wild Brittany Dover Sole at $48.00 a pound or the Wild Maryland Black Sea Bass at $39.00 a pound.
    
A popular raw bar features both eastern and Pacific options like Kumamoto oysters and Riptide. Chilled mussels, jumbo Mexican white shrimp and hard-shell lobster are also available.
     
Fourteen items make up the dessert menu which is unusual in today’s market. There is everything from rice pudding with cocoa ribs and grated dark chocolate to Pot De Crème constructed with chocolate crème, chocolate sorbet, biscotti, house-made whipped crème and more.
    
You can also get a fitting cheese plate with imported choices like Miti Blue from Spain to Humboldt Fog from California. Signature cocktails include Campfire Sling with straight rye whiskey, maple syrup and chocolate bites over back ice with scorched orange oil.
    
The service was professional. Some of the current waiters are from the Southern California locations as the place is just getting up to speed.
  
 Seafood and pleasant ambiance come together at Water Grill.
    
Water Grill, Caesars Palace, 3500 Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas. (702) 832-4777. www.watergrill.com.