By: Bob Gourley
I may be the only restaurant reviewer left in town that hasn’t been to Kitchen Table in Henderson. It isn’t for a lack of trying.
Each time I tried to visit on a Sunday, there was a huge wait. In fact, the last time I arrived the hostess said the wait would be two hours.
Finally, on a Friday morning, my wife and I entered at about 11:00 am and the hostess said it would be 10 to 15 minutes. The patio was closed because of high winds but it still seemed as though it would take longer than it should have. We decided to move on, but a couple of minutes later the manager caught us in the parking lot and said she would get us a table quickly.
After almost 2 years of waiting we did get to dine. And we’re glad we did. Monkey Bread was the first to arrive. These sticky, gooey cinnamon balls were delicious and melted in our mouths. Empanadas were next, a specialty of Chef Javier Chavez’s repertoire that was inspired by his mother’s recipe. Rolled into the crust were squash, corn, roasted chiles, asadero cheese and salsa verde.
Croque Madam sandwiches are a French invention, but this version is a remake with great results. Made with Challah bread, the creation is graced with thick ham, gruyere cheese and béchamel sauce served with arugula greens and topped with a kicker, a sunny side-up egg.
They have a half-dozen benedicts; including a traditional version with Canadian bacon, etc. But there are others, like the Meatless with poached eggs, avocado, fried green tomatoes, arugula and hollandaise sauce on an English muffin accompanied with fresh fruit. A pork belly edition is doused with jalapeno hollandaise for a little kick.
There has always been a lot of fanfare about foie gras here. In fact, you can order the gelatinous goose liver with white butter truffle with any dish. There is also a Foie Mac Muffin with a short rib, fried egg and béarnaise sauce. French Toast is a unique affair with amaretto batter, seared foie, caramelized pears and candied nuts.
The sandwich list is innovative. A vegetable offering is constructed with roasted sweet peppers, grilled squash, sliced mozzarella, balsamic dressing, pickled onions and toasted pine nuts. With thoughts of a country fair in mind, consider the Doughnut Sandwich with bacon, a fried egg and Irish cheddar.
A Kale Salad will peak your interest. The greens are combined with candied nuts, blue cheese, dates and jicama with pear vinaigrette. A Wedge, usually associated with steak entrees, is full of the usual ingredients plus pear tomatoes. Cream and potato soup is a hearty snack for the winter months.
The dining room is small, but the expansive patio area is a place where you can spread out for a meeting providing the weather cooperates. Otherwise you may have to endear a longer wait time. But don’t be discouraged, you will be rewarded with great food and friendly service.
Another location, Kitchen Table Squared, is set to open soon on Russell Road and will include dinner, happy hour and the same goodies that Henderson residents love.
Kitchen Table, Open for breakfast and lunch seven days a week. 1716 W. Horizon Ridge Pkwy. #100, Henderson. (702) 478-4782. www.kitchentablelv.com.