By: Bob Gourley
Comfort food has made a big comeback since Hash House a Go Go opened up in the valley some years back. Well now the residents of Henderson can visit their own branch in a space that was a former Tony Roma's.
The theme remains the same: dispensing unique items as they call it "twisted farm food." They offer three meals a day and if you are looking for a hearty meal, this is the place.
They are probably best known for their breakfasts. Chicken and Waffles, a dish made famous by the L.A. based Roscoe's Chicken and Waffles, is the most popular.
Instead of traditional fried chicken, they serve two large chicken breasts and hardwood-smoked bacon, fried leeks and hot maple reduction. Farm Scramblers are delivered with grilled mashed or crispy potatoes. Hardwood-smoked bacon, avocado, onion and Swiss cheese are one combination along with another: sundried tomatoes, basil and goat cheese. Fresh fruit or a biscuit accompany the eggs.
All benedicts are served on a fresh-split biscuit with spuds. Pork is hammered for maximum tenderness and then cooked crispy.
Fresh yellow tomatoes, spinach and BBQ cream are topped with scrambled eggs. Another version is made with house-smoked salmon, fresh asparagus, sundried banana, blackberry granola, snickers, apple cinnamon, mango and coconut.
Innovation continues with pancakes. At first glance, most would think Snicker Pancakes would be too sweet, but after the first bite, enjoyment quickly follows. These creations are not only light and fluffy, but the influence of the candy bar ingredients are a delightful surprise.
Visiting at dinner will no doubt conjure up pleasant thoughts of a family dinner of your youth - except new elements have been added to the entrees to spice things up a bit. For instance, there is Hash House Chicken and Biscuits. The meat is seared and sits atop fresh biscuits, but instead of heavy gravy, there is braised veggie cream.
Chicken pot pie is reinvented with roasted bird, shaved sweet corn, mushrooms, broccoli, carrots, red potato, veggies and pan gravy sitting below cracker crust. Meatloaf is baked in-house and is juicy and tender.
It is made with a blend of fresh ground beef, sausage and bacon. It can be ordered as an entrée or with a bed of linguine pasta that is constructed with charred tomato, basil pesto and a bit of chipotle topped with crispy parmesan cheese.
Sandwiches make the grade including the Kokomo that includes meatloaf accompanied with roasted tomato and griddled smoked mozzarella cheese on milk bread. One pound burgers feature two patties that are stuffed with fixins' like fresh mushroom and Swiss, apple-smoked bacon and mashed potatoes plus crumbled blue cheese. Lettuce, tomato and red onion fill them out nicely.
And yes they have a grilled cheese sandwich perfect for all ages. Cheddar is the star with tomato, prosciutto and avocado on grilled milk bread.
The dessert selection is limited, but after all of the food, that may not be a bad thing. They offer Andy's Famous Bread Pudding, fresh fruit cobbler and cheesecake.
Comfort food will never be the same!
Hash House a Go Go. Open every day. 555 N. Stephanie St., Henderson (702) 898-4646. Other locations are spread throughout the valley. www.hashhouseagogo.com.